DATÇA

I am planning to leave Bozukkale and go to Datça.

When I turn west from the exit of Bozukkale Bay in the early hours of the morning, the head wind seems like a herald of a nice sailing day.

After rounding the cape, I set course for Symi center, but that wind may it give you life.

This place always does this. It either increases or decreases. It is different from the Rhodes channel. Stubbornly, pushing and shoving, I am approaching Symi.

Cautious passage through the narrow strait with engine assist and in front of me a bunch of sailboats, they are racing.

About 15 boats with Greek flags are turning powerfully while racing around the small islands.

When my bow turns toward Datça center, we are already preparing and eating food with a sweet wind.

But shortly after, there is no wind. The annoying sound of flapping sails...

While the motorboaters are grinning, suddenly a dark blue, even deep purple color appears on the Datça side. Moreover, it is coming towards us rapidly.

Apparently it has set its sights on our sails. I am taking the genoa under protection.

It keeps coming and coming. Initially 30, later 40-45 knots on the head. Under these conditions, the remaining 5 miles seem to take 5 days.

Waves steepening very close to the shoreline, squalls coming from the head wherever I turn and

“Hello, I Was Waiting for You, You Haven’t Visited in a Long Time” says Datça. The mainsail is lowered out of respect for Datça.

This is our beautiful Datça.

It offers unexpected welcomes and farewells from time to time. Especially in the coastal area, showers are very effective. But once you enter the harbor, everything is fine.

I generally stay anchored offshore in front of the harbor. To swim in the sea and to avoid the endless music from the entertainment venues next to the pier in the evening.

Indeed, I can say that loud music broadcast has been the biggest problem of Datça Harbor for years. Environmentalist friends from Datça don’t know that this noise disturbs yachtsmen during hours when they are asleep at home.

This time I’m mooring at the pier. Erman, the pier supervisor, greets us. We tie up, we have a lot of work.

Datça; a town where wind is dominant. Its air is clean, rich in oxygen. It is said to be one of the world’s important oxygen reserves.

The famous historian Strabo said about this place, “If God wants his creation to live long, he leaves them on the Datça Peninsula.”

The population is not crowded. Its remoteness in terms of transportation must also have an effect on this.

The improved road connecting to Marmaris by land can be unbearable for some, despite its beautiful scenery. There is a sea connection between Körmen-Bodrum.

That is also insufficient. The ferry, which only operates during summer months, covers this route in one hour and forty-five minutes.

Why doesn't a fast ferry ever work? 

The rumors are long...That's why some say "like a virgin island."

The sea water is extremely clean and clear, fish are abundant. It is unique with its historical sites, organic farming areas, protected structures and Old Datça. It has made its almonds and olives famous.

While the people were engaged in agriculture, now they have turned to tourism and have even somewhat forgotten about agriculture.

Cultural activities are very intense in the town where locals, newcomers, and those who care about the environment live.

The municipality has even placed small libraries at bus stops. Anyone who wants can take and read them and leave them back at the stand.

So I docked at this Datça. The marina is calm again. I wanted to ask the official about this calmness, the marina, and the sea gate.

ERMAN ÖZKUL

"30-40 boats can dock at our marina. There is electricity and water but we don't have a sewage system.

Datça is a center of attraction, the number of guests coming by sea is quite high. In the last 2 years, there has been a very serious decrease in boat moorings compared to previous years. Foreign boats are almost nonexistent. We only started to welcome them sporadically beginning in October. Throughout the summer months, the boats that came were Turkish boats. Our guests stay for one or two days, tour Datça and its surroundings. They fulfill their provisioning needs. From the opposite Symi Island, our Greek neighbors come intensively, do shopping and leave.

There is a great need for a marina in Datça. The construction of the marina expected to be built across has been unable to continue. Many problems are mentioned. If that is completed, Datça will be even more different."

After Erman, I go to see a family that has been staying at the pier for a few days.

Clearly they love Datça very much.

Mr. Emre's wife Canan Hanım, their daughter Duygu, Duygu's husband Captain Serdar.

Captain Emre has found himself a son-in-law who is also a captain.

But he is a professional tugboat captain and they live in Zonguldak. We discuss the differences between tugboats and sailboats.

They are on vacation and they are in Datça, which they love.

EMRE GÜLCAN-SERDAR TAN

“Our boat is a 1982 Hallberg Rassy 352. We generally cruise in Gökova Gulf. We also have a house in Akyaka, so naturally our boat is based there. This year we said let's go to the Greek Islands. We encountered an endless storm already at Kos Island. We decided to turn back. We made our choice in favor of Datça and came here.

Datça is a place we love very much. It's different from other settlements. It has its own unique style. Unspoiled. Especially old Datça, like a dream. Different people choose this place, that's why it's beautiful and preserved. Island culture dominates Datça even though it's not an island. We love it very much, we're happy to come to Datça.”

Yes, the marina is deserted, Datça streets are quiet.

I called my friend Ahmet Öztürk who has been doing boat agency work for years.

“What's the situation in Datça, what's happening, let's talk” I said. “Can't I not talk?” he said.

But we drew the words out of the mouth of Datça's volunteer, its lover.

AHMET ÖZTÜRK

"I have been in this business and in Datça for 26 years. Marine Tourism has progressed a lot in Datça until today. Having a customs gate opening to the islands is also a factor in this. While we were in this increasingly growing activity until the previous year, it dropped by @ percent last year. After the state of emergency, everything changed. We forgot our 26 years of accumulated knowledge and experience, opened a new page, and started everything from scratch again. Customs regulations are applied differently according to ports. A formality at one port may not be required at another. Or something else is requested. We don't know who to explain what and how. For this reason, we heard that even a court case was opened between 2 different customs offices.

Until these days, the weight of boats we processed were foreign. However, now the weight is completely on Turkish boats. Foreigners evaporated, so to speak. Foreigners' obligation to live abroad for 185 days within a year has completely messed things up. The man has a residence permit in Turkey but has to take his boat out. It's not possible to explain this to them. For this reason, they are rapidly leaving our waters.

The situation of boats with Turkish owners and American flags is even worse. Believe me, we don't know what to do. I have almost become disenchanted with my profession. Datça is beautiful, it has come to a certain point, but when exits and entries from the sea are affected, it also harms tourism. The pier is practically empty.”

There's a small but very beautiful motor yacht moored next to me at the dock. Its owner is so attentive. I think he goes home in the evenings and comes in the morning. I met him and became curious about both the boat and its owner's life.

Muhteşem Bey is an architect who lived in America for many years.

His boat is a Dutch-made polyester. He showed me from the factory's test videos that it absolutely doesn't sink.

Its height drops to 3.5 meters. So it can navigate rivers without hitting bridges.

Every kind of comfort is available. He's moored in Datça and looks like he'll stay around here.

MUHTEŞEM ATASOY

"When I was 18, I brought a tirhandil boat from Bodrum to Istanbul with 4 friends. Since that day, the taste of the sea has remained on my palate.

I worked as an Architect in America. In the rush of life, I couldn't spare time for the sea. Finally, my work allowed time for my hobbies and I bought this boat 11 years ago. I toured the entire Adriatic coast with my boat.

When I decided to return to Turkey permanently, I transported my boat by ship. I stayed in Kaş and Sığacık, traveled everywhere.

Finally, I decided to settle in Datça. This place is really very beautiful and considered pristine compared to similar places. The people are at a level I can relate to. Environmentally conscious. Especially Old Datça is an architectural marvel. The owners of this place are doing good work by protecting where they live.

Turkey has few marinas. Datça has none at all. This year I'll continue living between boat and home here."

Datça residents place great importance on art.

Exhibitions, concerts, and theater performances are indispensable for Datça residents.

Every artist, every art group also wants to come to beautiful Datça. Many of them have settled here, are living here, or...

The municipality has an exhibition space behind the pier. We come across paintings with maritime themes.

Painter Tamer Ertunga is also among those who liked this place and migrated here, who live here. We are touring his 5th exhibition in Datça.

TAMER ERTUNGA

"I lived in Istanbul, in the Marmara Region for many years. Life in Istanbul became difficult. First, I commuted to Datça for 5 years. Now I've moved and have been living here for 4.5 years. It's a calm, comfortable place. Although it's getting more crowded over time, it's still much better compared to other places.

There are various hiking trails here. Intertwined with historical sites. We have hiking groups. We regularly go on nature walks. The mild climate also has a great effect. You can see flowers blooming in December in Datça.

I started writing poetry during my high school years. Later on, I started making small paintings alongside these poems. Over time, painting came to the forefront.

I loved the underwater world very much. While I took my subjects from there, over time I also moved to the sea surface.

I have opened many exhibitions in Belgium, the Netherlands, and other places. This is my 5th exhibition in Datça.

I love nature very much. I am 58 years old, and witnessing how rapidly nature is deteriorating in my life, which is as small as a dot compared to the world's lifetime, saddens me greatly. Now pufferfish are caught on fishing lines. It's very sad.

Finally, we are with a sailing friend who settled in Datça 16 years ago. Ali is a keen sailor. His brothers are manufacturers of MAT boats. He is an important member of the crew that has won the most beautiful trophies in many races together.

He has devoted his heart to Datça. He continues his business life and private life here pleasantly.

ALI SOMER

"I have been living in Datça for 16 years. We live pleasantly with a bit of tourism and a bit of agriculture. Datça is paradise, one must know its value. It is an excellent place with both its climate and ease of living.

In winter, I do farming in the Değirmenbükü area in the north of Datça. I grow almonds and olives. We produce molasses and olive oil. It's a complete farm life. There is a lot of wind in Datça, so there is no need to spray the trees. Olive trees love the wind. Everything is naturally organic. We don't use fertilizers. Ecological farming exists in the nature of this region. We produce valuable products as a result.

In the summer months, I am involved in tourism. We operate a facility in Datça harbor

Datça is a maritime city but until today it did not have a marina. 2 marina investments were made but many obstacles were put in place for their realization.

For example, the procurement points of the materials needed for Körmen's landfill, even their transportation became a problem. Since the region is a Special Environmental Protection Area, everything is difficult to do, takes time.

Life in Datça is comfortable. Generally, the people of Datça who are involved in tourism become complacent at the end of the season. They forget what needs to be done, what needs to be developed.

They need to understand the importance of agriculture more."

Yes, with our own observations, what we captured with our lens, completing our interviews with those who love Datça and even live there, we are weighing anchor from the port. On our way to another port, right at the port exit, our fortune comes to our fishing line.

Datça sees us off with its abundance. To be together in another port in another article

Stay well.