Karacasögüt: Gökova Bay's Most Sheltered Natural Harbor

Dear Readers, In This Article We Are Going to Karacasöğüt, the Sheltered Magnificent Cove of Gökova Gulf.

To Karacasöğüt, where the tranquility inside remains undisturbed even when storms rage offshore.

To that cove which is accessible both by sea and land, yet has not allowed its beauty to be diminished.

We are going to Karacasöğüt, where the grave of Sadun Boro, the doyen of mariners, is located.

Being sheltered and having land access has made it a place preferred by mariners, especially for wintering. Although this preference has over time created a crowd of static mariners who never leave the cove, it is still beautiful.

Inside the cove, there is a fountain right on the shore, where it is said that Piri Reis took on water for his ships.

When entering the cove, the Gökova Yelken Kulübü (Gökova Sailing Club) facilities on the starboard side create a harmonious unity with nature. At this facility, meticulously operated by Haluk Karamaoğlu and his family, sailing courses are held during certain periods of the year. Students stay at the facility as boarders and receive training.

Years ago, we shot a music video with the late artist Barış Akarsu at this club. Barış, who had taken sailing training in Ereğli, showcased this skill in our video while we conducted our shoot at Gökova Sailing Club.

There are 2 piers in Karacasöğüt. The first one is a restaurant's private pier. A pharmacist couple from Kuşadası came here with their boat and loved it very much. Eventually, they decided to settle here and even purchased the restaurant. They want to spend the rest of their lives in Karacasöğüt.

There's a familiar boat at their wooden pier.

Our dear Sadun's last catamaran is moored here, looking at us sadly. While we were shooting, we had the chance to see his daughter Deniz hanım, her spouse, and their children. They were tidying up their father's legacy.

Meanwhile, a small boat at the pier caught our attention. A family of 3 in the swimming platform. We were curious where they came from and where they were going. Why Karacasöğüt?

We asked Dilek hanım, Mete bey, and their daughter Defne.

THE KARDEŞ FAMILY

"We live in Istanbul. Our small boat is moored in Bandırma Erdek.

Every year we first prepare the boat. Then we load it on a trailer and launch it in different seas to cruise around. Last year we launched it in Selimiye and explored the Hisarönü and Yeşilova Gulfs.

This year we launched it in Akyaka and came here to explore the Gökova Gulf. After seeing Karacasöğüt's nature, people, and waters, we decided to stay here for at least a week. It's a very beautiful, perfect place.

The people are affectionate and helpful. We don't want to finish our vacation days and return to Istanbul, to go back to that stressful environment, but what can we do."

At the same dock we meet an amateur sailor and his guests. Şeydan Bey is a retired electrical engineer. He lives in Kuşadası and keeps his boat Miranda there. He leaves Kuşadası and cruises all around our coasts.

His favorite place is Karacasöğüt. Painter Fahri Sever and his wife are also guests; they are here with them and all are in love with Karacasöğüt.

ŞEYDAN TOPBAŞ

"With my 36-foot boat, I'm at sea until I get bored or the wife says 'time to return.' Now I came here from Kuşadası with my guests.

Karacasögüt is heaven and I come here first every year. The route on the southern legs from Kuşadası is unpleasant in my opinion. We cover a long distance by sea to reach these beautiful places. Now I will stay in Karacasögüt, which I love very much. I've traveled all over the Aegean, including the Greek Islands, and I haven't seen a more beautiful place than this.

The 2nd place I love is Okluk Bay and the 3rd place I love is Gümüşlük. I will leave the boat here and travel back and forth by land. It's a central location to beautiful areas. It's very close to Marmaris and has all kinds of facilities. I expect to be happy."

While going from the restaurant's wooden pier to the dock under the control of Muğla Governorship (MUÇEV), we pass in front of Karacasögüt's only market and the restaurant that has become famous in recent years.

The market is here, which we remember from the days when it was a village grocery store, and now meets all kinds of needs. Right next to it is a restaurant. The young operators are locals of the village.

We ask Ferhat Balcı about these places, the village where he was born.

FERHAT BALCI

"I'm a Karacasögüt local. I'm 34 years old and I see that there hasn't been much change here in terms of deterioration compared to the past. In recent years, the pier has been renovated, the market has been renovated.

Tourism in our country is going badly, but not so in Karacasögüt. At least there's no going backwards, we can say it's staying in place.

Looking at this year, even this is enough for us.

In Karacasöğüt, eighty percent of the movement comes from those arriving by sea. This year, there are almost no tourists to speak of. In fact, we can say it's finished. The situation at the marina is different though. Our locals here have bought boats and moored at the marina, some haven't cast off their lines for six months.

The trend seems to have changed. Nobody is leaving their spot. If you want to moor, you need to give notice a week in advance to find a berth. The marina is that full. We've organized the market according to needs. It has become a place where you can find Italian sausages and American Corn Flakes instead of a normal village shop. We're waiting for sailors."

And then we come to the famous marina called Çin Mahallesi. The village headman used to operate it back then. The famous marina of Prof. İlhan Vidinli and Yaman Koray, who lost his life due to an electrical leak on his boat, has become concrete and crowded.

New sailors have arrived. Starting from behind the marina all the way to Gökova Yelken Kulübü, there are boats hauled out for winter, and some even spend the entire winter in this position.

We step out onto the courtyard of a sculptor, an artist. The sound of an accordion comes from inside. Eray Okkan is retired from the İzmir State Opera and Ballet. He has a workshop in İzmir where he continues his sculpture work, but his body is here and he is a creator who now wants to stay in these parts.

ERAY OKKAN

"The passion for the sea has been there since childhood. When I reached my fifties and found the money, I bought a boat and became intensely involved with the sea. I generally live on my 41-foot boat. I set off for Okluk Bay and mistakenly ended up in Karacasöğüt. That arrival was the arrival—I've been living here for nine years.

From Karacasöğüt, you can reach everywhere within short distances. All the old salts have lived here and continue to live here. We do our shopping from the greenhouses and villages. Of course, we often buy the same products cheaper than in Marmaris. The sailors at the dock mostly live here. I've lived in marinas; I found it strange how people used those spaces like parking lots. Here it's the opposite. There are those who go out to sea a lot, as well as those who live on their boats without going out much. Fish are plentiful; I catch them. I get the fish for myself and my guests from here.

I have a workshop in İzmir, but I don't want to go back anymore. İzmir is a quiet place, but still, I don't want to go. A retirement pension is enough for you in these parts. What more could a person want? This must be happiness."

This time we are walking along the pier and at the end, I head across to Teoman Sarıaslan, the doyen of sailors, on his boat "Su Dünyası" moored to the shore. His entire life has been spent at sea and continues to be. He sails the seas and travels the world alone. He uses different routes.

TEOMAN SARIASLAN

"I was born in Adana and have been involved with sailing since I was 14 years old. I have been living the boat life for 35 years. In 1984, I came to Bodrum with my wooden boat built in the Black Sea and did charter for 9 years. Then I had this steel boat built in İzmir Çakalburun and went to the Far East. I worked with charter and diving safaris in countries like Thailand and Vietnam. Then I came back to Turkey, to Karacasöğüt. I am currently doing boat transfers from here to the Far East. I have been in Karacasöğüt for 8 years. Before the concrete pier was built, this was an excellent place. Now it has almost become a marina.

Living aboard in our country has started to become increasingly difficult. People buy a boat and whether they use it or not, they put it in marinas. The state shows every possible difficulty to people living on boats. For this reason, I want to leave Turkey as soon as possible. Before the concrete pier was built here, 35 boats were moored here, now there are 80 boats. Berthing inevitably brings sea pollution. Motor yachts and speedboats in the bays are now becoming a danger.

"For now, the governorate is operating this place. My fear is that if this place is sold to a marina and one or two more pontoons are added, it will become unlivable."

Unfortunately, I could only have a brief conversation with such a valuable seafarer. But the subject was Karacasöğüt. Saying "until next time," I bid farewell to Teoman Sarıaslan and head to the village cemetery. After visiting our dear Sadun's grave, contemplating his writings, his achievements, how he broadened our horizons, and many other things, we bid farewell to Karacasöğüt.

Well, what can we say, until we meet again in another article, in another corner of paradise.

Stay healthy and safe.