YALIKAVAK: Premier Marina Destination on Bodrum Peninsula's West Coast

Dear readers, in this article we are heading to Yalıkavak, a place in the Bodrum Region that I have been visiting for years and where I learned to be cautious in its offshore waters.​

I first arrived here by sea in 1995. There was no marina, no fancy restaurants, no large facilities, nothing at all. With its charming, pristine sea and its air that didn't require air conditioning even on the hottest days, it was truly a paradise. We had moored our first tirhandil boat at the harbor, left my family there for TV series filming, and returned back.

It was such a safe place. Back then, my son Onat, who was still young, started working at the market behind the boat at the harbor in exchange for ice cream. He was collecting empties, sweeping and hosing down the front of the market.

Yalıkavak is a place that has left deep impressions on my life. The establishment of the sailing club, witnessing how dedicated the officials worked when it had its own municipality, the place where I thought "One day I'll settle down here."

Years passed, and after a while, a marina was built here. It was managed by friends from the sailing and marina community. Those were very good days. There was even a sailing club inside.

Then whatever happened, happened. Yalıkavak started to change just like our country. It became crowded, turned into almost a construction site, and became expensive. It became a town where you had to search for a place to enter the sea, and when found, the cost was very high.

Two years ago, when we came for www.coastguidetr.com video shoots, we anchored in the opposite coves while passing to Güllük Gulf. Even there, no pristine areas remained; facilities with strange names, dirty water, and music noise until late hours were disturbing those at anchor.

Of course, this is a matter of supply and demand. Besides those of us who want to enjoy the sea and nature peacefully, there are certainly those who want to have a lively time and blow off all their energy wherever they go.

Otherwise, why would investors make these investments? My favorite places in Yalıkavak are the art street that opens in summer months and Sanduma Village.

We took these current photographs in the middle of winter. On a day dominated by an extreme northeasterly storm. No trace of the summer months. That quay, that harbor is breaking apart.

We wanted to chat with our mariner friends. All of them are fighting for their lives, on watch at their vessels in the harbor. We were going to interview the harbor master. He's on one boat, then another. The storm is also disturbing the harbor. The fishermen are both playing games and watching the waves in the cooperative coffeehouse.

Since our path led us to the harbor, we decided to start our interviews with Yalıkavak Fisheries Cooperative Chairman Fedai Bozkurt.

FEDAİ BOZKURT

"I'm in love with Yalıkavak. I was born and raised here. Its air and sea are unique. However, the construction and crowds of recent years have made us miss the old peaceful days. The greenery has decreased, it has almost become a construction site. The quiet life has changed into commercial life.

From our fathers' and grandfathers' time to today, unfortunately only 20-25 active fishermen remain in our cooperative. In the old days, they say there was so much fish that those who went to sea couldn't find a place to sell their catch. Now a fisherman can barely fill his stomach. Fish stocks in the Mediterranean are depleting. If measures aren't taken, it will get even worse.p>

Unconscious fishing has brought us to this point. Fish are being caught during spawning season. The uncontrolled hunting by purse seiners and trawlers, illegal fishing is depleting the fish stocks here as it is everywhere else.

Sole, red mullet, bogue and striped red mullet are generally what we catch in our waters. Our offshore areas produce rough seas. Catching fish from those areas is very valuable.

I've become nostalgic for the old days of paradise Yalıkavak."

In winter months, the sun suddenly disappears. We called our sailor friend, the friendly doctor Alev Şahin whom we know from yacht rallies and races, to guide us. He took us to different shores and high hills to capture footage before sunset. Alev worked in the pharmaceutical industry for many years and migrated to Yalıkavak. We both toured and talked.

ALEV ŞAHİN

"For years I've been coming to Yalıkavak for my holidays, not to Bodrum, but to Yalıkavak. This place appeals to me differently. It was the sea, the air, and its self-sufficiency that attracted me. I would always stay at the same hotel, and when my vacation ended I would return to Istanbul. My siblings settled here before me.

I made my decision too, and 6.5 years ago I ended my business life and settled here. I swim every day without fail. I dive and sail. I participate in yacht races and rallies.

Three years ago, I returned to medicine. I work as a physician and head of the health unit at Bodrum Municipality. I have a very dynamic life, I owe this to Yalıkavak activities.

Between the time I settled here and today, there has been a difference in terms of density, crowds and noise. I loved Yalıkavak more when I first arrived. It was a simple, natural, peaceful and self-sufficient place. Excessive construction has harmed this place and continues to do so. Will there be a turnaround again, I don't know. Still, I love Yalıkavak very much."

Alev dropped us off at the quay again. The waves beating against the quay were effective even into the depths of the spacious park. In the cafes behind the park, sailors were waiting for us. They had finished their games and would check their boats in the harbor once more before evening. They are all involved with the sea.

Among them, Yusuf Gür served as general manager of Orhan Ağaçlı facilities for many years. He retired and settled here. He has a boat and goes fishing. He doesn't even think about Istanbul. Şakir Sayımakaçık worked as an ocean-going captain after retiring from the Naval Forces. He sailed the world's seas and settled in Yalıkavak 8 years ago. He also fishes and sails. Mustafa Öztürk is our old friend. We had found his boat Debora for him to purchase in Marmaris years ago.43-foot boat after the first syllables of his daughter Deniz and son Bora's names. We sailed together, and he made his boat available to us for filming. We entered many yacht races. He now settled in Yalıkavak and continues his life here.

MUSTAFA ÖZTÜRK

"We came here from Ankara 8 years ago. Our relatives were here too, and we loved Yalıkavak very much. We built our own residence ourselves. We also moored our boat at the marina. My wife Serpil teaches yoga and is very happy with her life. My friends and I go fishing at least 2 days a week. We definitely catch our own fish. Here we also started the habit of meeting for coffee with friends. We play games, then gather at our boats in the marina or at nearby restaurants. We head home as it gets dark.

At least 2-3 times a month, we go to the nearby Greek islands. The island shopkeepers have become like family. Before setting out, if we have any food requests, we call ahead. When we arrive, the table is set.

We've accomplished much more than what we dreamed of before coming here. Now we've become Yalıkavak locals, we've adapted. We've learned to live life without taking it too seriously."

As it got dark, we saw Mustafa off to his home. We're heading to Minör Restaurant, which is run year-round by 2 sea enthusiasts. Kıvanç and Anıl continue their love that began at sea, at the seaside in Yalıkavak, which they're passionate about. They have a quality music sensibility and don't compromise on it. Their performances aren't just pianist singer or solo guitar acts.

They have real orchestras. They have become the performance center for musicians living in the region.

A beloved venue for art enthusiasts.

KIVANÇ SOMEREN-ANIL ŞAHİN

"Our love story began with a sailing trip from Yalıkavak to the Greek Islands. We were in the midst of an intense business life in Istanbul. Years were passing by in office buildings without us even realizing how time flew.

Eight years ago, we came here for 3 months to catch our breath and rest. We came, but by the end of the first month, we decided to wrap up everything in Istanbul and settle in Yalıkavak.

In September 2010, Istanbul ended and Yalıkavak began in our lives. After a short period that was perhaps empty but cleared our minds, we felt the need to do something. We both are interested in music and had a dream of opening a small business.

Eventually, we opened a café-style place. We make music in one corner and food in the other. The business took off and grew. We built a wide audience, mainly consisting of foreign and local friends living in the region.

This time the venue became too small, so we opened this new place. We serve summer and winter, we make music. We share the stage with different musicians living in the area. Music is our hobby, it takes away all the fatigue. We're happy to have captured a beautiful atmosphere.

We're in a state far beyond what we dreamed of.

Without our love of music, the restaurant business wouldn't actually be something bearable.

Everything was going so well, but Yalıkavak has been slightly disappointing us over the last two years.

The quiet, self-sufficient place became industrialized. Ferraris started passing frequently in front of our door. We thought we left them behind in Istanbul, but they've come here. We miss our village from 2011. Those who come to Yalıkavak are no longer happy with these developments either."

Yes, we wanted to get to know Yalıkavak with a different face, through those who are intimately connected with the sea.

We also witnessed statements that were mentioned in many interviews we conducted but never officially recorded. First of all, we see that coastal fishing is rapidly disappearing. The number of fishermen and boats is decreasing. Shelter facilities under fisheries control have started accepting amateur yachtsmen's boats for berthing. Of course, what happens with security and insurance matters is unknown. Berthing fees, which were previously reasonable here, have now almost reached marina rates.

If a marina is to be built in an area, having a real marina doesn't bother anyone. But a small marina with massive shopping and entertainment areas not only spoils the visual appearance of charming, lovely towns but also changes the form of commerce.

Finally, in the lovely towns where people settle after retirement, doing small jobs, creating activities, and working—even on a small scale—brings more happiness than completely disconnecting from working life. Of course, if there's an opportunity.

Stay healthy.p>

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