Foça: Ancient Harbor Where Mediterranean Monk Seals Still Thrive

Dear readers, Foça, chosen as a habitat even by Mediterranean monk seals, is among the places I love most and frequently visit.

I go to Foça in winter months as well as summer months.

It generally gets quite crowded on weekends. Its proximity to İzmir and Manisa is the factor in this situation.

Some of the day-trippers tow their small boats behind their cars and come fishing...

It is generally known for its tranquility, clean sea, historical sites, fish, siren rocks, and natural beauty.

As luck would have it, I sold my first boat here. I also bought my second and third ones here.

Thank God, my third and final boat is sufficient for me and more, and I didn't come across another boat for sale when I went for the shoot either.

But when I completed the shoots, returned to İzmir, and sat down at the computer to write, wouldn't you know it, a friend forwarded me a sales listing for a boat in Foça—and it's a model I really love—for my consideration.

I don't know what to say. Foça seems to hold a special place in my maritime life.

I had the chance to photograph Foça on a snowy day, as rare as it is, just as I do on typical sunny, pleasant days.

Fishermen tending to their nets, the activity at the fish market, snowflakes gently taking their places on the boats—these are priceless scenes.

Old, preserved, and even restored structures are the key landmarks of Foça. The cornerstones that make Foça what it is.

Its castle extending into the sea and the fishing harbor offer us different views from every angle.

Life at sea naturally becomes even more lively during the summer months. Sailing yachts in front of holiday resorts, windsurfers, fishermen.

It is possible to witness the training sessions of Foça Sailing Specialization Club athletes at sea in both summer and winter.

İzmir-Foça ferry services also operate to Foça during the summer months.

Let's continue our story about this beautiful town with those who live here, if you'd like.

First, we're going to Büyük Liman (Big Harbor) location where recreational vessels are moored. Summer and winter, many boats are berthed at this quay.

Unfortunately, the capacity is limited and there is no effort to increase it. Right across from it is the large fishing harbor.

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At Büyük Liman, we are greeted by Melih Özatalay, who lives aboard his boat year-round.

An amateur sailor and amateur boat builder. But before him, greeting us at the passerelle is his dog "Kaptan" (Captain).

MELİH ÖZATALAY

"I'm from Manisa, my childhood was spent in Foça. After finishing my working life, I decided to settle in Foça.

Foça is intertwined with the sea, a town that lives with the sea. Years ago, I built my 10-meter boat here. Later I bought a 43-foot boat and spent intensive time at sea. Most recently, I bought a 50-foot boat and I'm living aboard it winter and summer. My summer months pass with long cruises. In winter, I stay at Fok Marina in the big harbor.

The boat environment feels warmer to me, heating is easy. The comfort of home is available here too. The location where I berth with my boat is sheltered from all weather except westerlies. However, 4-5 times a year, strong westerly effects are experienced. On such days, we don't let our guard down. Waves enter the harbor, wind hits the boats beam-on, and seas build up. We then move the boats away from the quay a bit.

With so many places I could explore, why Foça?

Foça is a place that shows no difference in terms of lifestyle between summer and winter. Life continues unchanged. I'm happy to be in Foça. The only thing I'm not happy about is that with new regulations, healthcare facilities in the town are reduced in winter compared to summer."

Right on the same quay, we meet Altan Yalman İbrikoğlu, a sailor of many years.

He's checking his boat. We know and follow him from Ege Açık Deniz Yat Kulübü (Aegean Offshore Yacht Club) races.

He's at the helm of the boat he races and very ambitious. During the briefings, he had caught our attention with his questions that challenged the committee, questions that perhaps other racers didn't know about.

He lives his life intertwined with the sea in Foça.

ALTAN YALMAN İBRİKOĞLU

"I started sailing in Göztepe in 1960. I settled in Kuşadası in 1973. Kuşadası was just like Foça back then. Everything was warm, friendly, just the right size. But construction rapidly ruined Kuşadası. When it became a city, I left there in 2002 and came to Foça.

Time cannot ruin this place like it has many other parts of Turkey.

Being a protected site, the absence of military and industrial facilities, and controlled construction protect Foça.

Generally, people who love the sea and are involved with it in one way or another come here and adapt to the lifestyle.

I have a 5.75-meter sailboat. With it, I both sail and fish. I spend wonderful days with my old seafaring friends.

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I raced for many years, and I still race on yachts. For this reason, I had the opportunity to see many parts of the world and

compete there.

After seeing all of this, I can state that Foça is one of the 10 most beautiful places in the world for sailing from a maritime perspective. There are locations where you can do different training sessions within the same day. It creates variety with its wind and waves.

It's very close to İzmir and Manisa. Even if you come from outside, it's a place with suitable accommodation options. Sailing in Foça needs to be even better and advance further, because the conditions are suitable for it."

Since our instructor Altan mentioned sailing, shouldn't we visit the sailing club? It's right across from the quay where we are, next to the fishing harbor. We walk to the club passing by magnificent stone houses.

Training in all weather conditions with tiny children and youngsters. We briefly interview athlete Kemal Metin without taking too much of his time. Then we capture a few shots from their training session in the bay. Right alongside the anglers.

KEMAL METİN

"I'm from Foça, we live by the sea. While playing basketball, I used to see boats training on the water. Like many of my friends, I decided to get involved in sailing. I've been sailing at Foça Sailing Specialization Club for 3 years. I also participate in races. During winter months, I continue my education as a boarding student in İzmir. On weekends, I come to Foça and participate in training sessions.

Foça is a wonderful place for sailing and life in general. I'm happy living here."

From sailors to anglers, our route takes us to Foça Municipality's art center. Many artists have chosen Foça to live their lives. In this center, there are art enthusiasts of all ages continuing their painting work. We directed our questions to Ayşe İncirlioğlu, who leads them.

AYŞE İNCİRLİOĞLU

"I lived in Ankara, İstanbul and İzmir. After retiring from Ankara, I settled in Foça. This is a place that will never be spoiled. There's a peaceful life here. I'm a fine arts graduate. When I came here, I continued to engage in painting. We do painting work at this center within the municipality.

We continue our work with residents of the town who are interested in and passionate about painting. We have education and production activities for ten months of the year. In July and August, we have exhibitions at the castle. I am happy to be in Foça, to live here."

Then we need to meet with a fisherman. Let's also learn about the fish situation in these seas. We're heading to Küçük Liman, where small fishing boats, the fish market, and beautiful restaurants are located. We're meeting professional fisherman Arman Koçoğulları by the boats.

We'll talk with him at his shop where he sells fishing equipment. Captain Armağan says he's been at sea for two nights and hasn't caught a single fish as we walk. "Where have all these fish disappeared to?" he mutters.

ARMAĞAN KOÇOĞULLARI

"I'm from Alaybey, İzmir. I've been coming to Foça since 1965. Its pristine nature, air, water, and people captivate me.

I've been fishing professionally for 20 years. The Foça seas are excellent for fishing.

While the Foça seas are a paradise, they can also be hellish at times. Illegal and unconscious fishing, excessive catches by trawlers beyond capacity, and uncontrolled fishing are the biggest problems.p>

Without these, Turkish waters would feed 2 more Turkeys. We are left to fend for ourselves under these conditions. In Foça waters, depending on the season, Bonito, Bluefish, Mullet, Horse Mackerel, Bogue, Sea Bream, Sand Smelt, Sole, Shrimp, Squid and Cuttlefish are caught."

I randomly run into Captain Armağan and meet up with Sedat Temelli in the town center. He settled here years ago and has been a seafarer since childhood. We've been together at Bodrum Offshore Sailing Club races in recent years. He works as a race officer.

SEDAT TEMELLİ

"I started sailing at Karşıyaka Sailing Club in the seventies and have continued until today. Now I work as a race officer, coach and yacht instructor.

I underwent heart surgery 24 years ago.

For my health, I needed a quiet place with clean air and iodine.

For this reason, I immediately moved to Foça and have been living here year-round, summer and winter, ever since.

I didn't sit idle here either and we founded Foça Sailing Club. Despite being a small town club, it became very successful and even trained Olympic athletes. Its success continues to this day.p>

In my spare time, I do amateur fishing with my small wooden boat.

Foça is a very beautiful place. It's an excellent location with a blue flag, but the local administration keeps this place somewhat hidden, preventing overcrowding as much as possible. This also works in our favor as residents.

It's close to İzmir, in a position that could be the center of fishing. A shelter was built for the fisheries cooperative by the Ministry of Agriculture. Private vessels can also berth here on the condition that they provide economic contribution to the shelter. But I cannot say that this place is well-managed.

The main quay where vessels berth is operated by İzmir Metropolitan Municipality. Berthed vessels pay a mooring fee under the name of occupancy charge. There is electricity and water, but it's not safe on days when westerlies blow. The fees are almost as high as a marina. Security is being attempted, but to what extent.

In westerly weather, everyone needs to protect their boat.

Foça has a temperate climate, and being by the sea, there can be humidity. We live here happily."

So here it is, the legendary town of Foça. It's hard to leave this sailors' town, and we depart with a bittersweet feeling. Who knows when our next meeting will be?

Stay healthy and well.